Location, extension and limits.Alava occupies the south-western part of the Basque Country. Its land is a continuation of the great natural basin that runs from the Pamplona Basin along the Barranca and connects with the Alava plain at Ciordia (N.) and Eguino (A.). It covers an area of 3,042 km². It borders Vizcaya and Guipúzcoa to the north, Logroño to the south, Navarre to the east and Burgos and Vizcaya (Orduña) to the west. It has a perimeter of 394 kilometres. This corresponds to 85 kilometres on the border with Vizcaya, 42 kilometres with Guipúzcoa, 67 kilometres with Logroño, 75 kilometres with Navarre and 125 kilometres with Burgos. Its location is determined by the following coordinates: North latitude: Its limits are 42° 28' 0" and 43° 13' 30". Eastern longitude (Madrid Meridian): It is 0° 25' 5" and 1° 27' 37". The highest point is 1,537 m. on Mount Gorbea, the lowest point is 400 m. on the Cadagua River as it passes through Oquendo. The northern boundary begins at the Arbarrain peak and soon ascends to the Aratz rock, a strategic Alava vantage point on the border Guipúzcoa and Alava. From here you can see almost the whole of Guipúzcoa to the north; Aralar and a large part of Navarre to the east; to the south the plains of Alava and its central mountain ranges; to the west the crests of Duranguesado. Aratz is the first major landmark of the northern contour and belongs to the Urkilla mountain range. From there, to the northwest, there is a series of peaks and hills whose watershed - Cantabrian and Mediterranean - separates and unites Alava and Guipúzcoa. This Basque mountain range, an extension of the Pyrenees, successively bears the names of San Adrián, Urkilla, Elguea, Arlabán, peñas de Anboto and Gorbea. But the outline of Alava does not always follow the dividing peaks. The Albertia, Jarindo and Durakogain mountains turn sharply to the north and encompass the Aramayona valley for Alava, on the Cantabrian side. The capricious line of the Alava contour passes through the vicinity of Garagarza (G.) and heads towards the crags of Anboto, to the pass of Besaide, and from this extremely wild and picturesque point - a conjunction of Vizcaya, Alava and Guipúzcoa - it continues to Alluiz, near the sanctuary of Urkiola, a beautiful and impressive ridge. To the west of the Aramayona valley, the border with Vizcaya passes through Ochandiano (V.) and Ubidea (V.) on the Mediterranean side. From Ubidea, the demarcation line climbs westwards along the Gorbea massif and northwards to its highest peak. Following the watershed, the boundary descends towards Barambio. To the north of this village, it crosses the River Altube, a tributary of the Nervión (Cantabrian side). From the Areta bend (A.) where it crosses the Nervión, the contour draws its sharp projection to the right bank of the river Cadagua. The line along the Biscayan Encartaciones forms a curve through Oquendo and Llanteno. And it goes up again until it reaches the Mena Valley in Burgos. The western edge of Alava borders Arceniega and the land of Ayala, with the smaller entities of Sojo, Erbi, Añes, Lejarzo, Salmantón, Madaria and Aguiñiga, already in the foothills of Sierra Salvada. This long mass, which separates Alava from Castile for a good stretch, has significant heights of over a thousand metres. The extension of Sierra Salvada adjoining Burgos, Aguiñiga (Ayala) and Délica (Arrastaria), encloses the source of the River Nervión and the town of Orduña with its fertile plain, a Biscayan enclave of some 35 km² which also includes the villages of Lendoño de Arriba, Lendoño de Abajo, Belandia and Mendeico.
The Alava contour continues along Mount Babio, Aloria, Saracho and Mount S. Pedro. It continues through Unza, Delica and Tertanga (Arrastia). Sierra Salvada and Peña de Orduña join here with the mountains of Guibijo, giving mountainous continuity to the border with Burgos, in a short stretch, with the Alavese villages of Iñurrita, Archua and Guillarte (Cuartango). The rugged Alavese contour forms a sharp bend and heads resolutely westwards, cutting off the Omezillo springs that bring water from Castile. The border with Castile passes through Valdegobía in the municipalities of Osma, Mioma, Pinedo, Basabe, Acebedo, Valluerca and Quintanilla. In the mountains of Bóveda - on the border with Burgos - the river Gobía rises and gives its name to the valley. Once again, the contour turns sharply south, as far as Valderejo. When it seems that the mountains of Valderejo are going to close this flank as far as the Arzena mountain range, we have the unexpected, the Castilian wedge of Valpuerta strangles the lands of Valdegobía in Alava and forms the bottleneck of Mioma-Astulez. Once again, it heads south through Gurendes, Quejo and Nograro (also Valdegobía) until it crosses the Arzena mountain range and forms a point to the Ebro, in the district of Sobrón (Bergüenda). The Alava contour follows a N.W.-S.E. line, coinciding with the course of the river Ebro that separates Alava from Burgos. It passes through the municipalities of Puentelarra, Fontecha (both in Bergüenda), Leciñana, Salcedo and Comunión (Salcedo). In this area of Ribera Baja, the first riverside enclave is located in front of Miranda de Ebro. About 6 km, at the mouth of the River Bayas, it belongs to Burgos on the left bank of the Ebro. The contour withdraws to the lands of Comunión (Salcedo), Ribavellosa and Lacorzana (Armiñón). Here the Alava border crosses the Zadorra where it flows into the Ebro. The border line continues NW-SE through Zambrana. At 4 km. it crosses the mouth of the river Inglares, which comes from the foothills of Toloño and the Loza hills. And from here the land of Alava borders Logroño. In the Buradón mountains is the Conchas de Haro gorge opened up by the Ebro current. Here there is a small enclave in La Rioja with the village of Briñas. And once again the River Ebro serves as a boundary to Labastida. Once again Logroño jumps the Ebro River and advances through Alava to the peaks of the Sierra de Toloño in the area of San Vicente de la Sonsierra (Log.) This is the first large enclave of La Rioja on the left bank of the Ebro. Rioja Alavesa follows the border of the Ebro, through the lands of Baños de Ebro, Elciego, La Puebla de la Barca and Laserna. But before reaching Oyón there is another small enclave on the left bank of the river, opposite Logroño. From Oyón, it heads north to the Sierra de Codés in Aguilar (N.). At this point, the border turns south-west, passing through the south of Meano (N.) and La Poblacion (N.). It crosses the Cantabrian mountain range, including its northern end and a large part of the basin of the River Ega in Navarre. The Navarrese villages of Marañón, Cabredo and Genevilla are in this area. In the vicinity of the latter village, the boundary crosses the Ega and goes as far as the Peña de Yoar (Codés). From the Codés mountain range, it goes northwards, through the valley of Santa Cruz de Campezo (A.) and crosses the Ega again, which is now swollen by the tributaries coming down from the mountains of Iturrieta (A.) and Izkiz (A.). The boundary line continues Orbiso (A.), Zúñiga (N.) and the vicinity of Ulibarri de Arana (A.). Here it makes an entry to the north of Narcue (N.) and Ulibarri (N.). It then heads straight on to the Amescoas mountains, crosses the Urbasa mountain range, descends to the plain and crosses the river Araya. Ilarduya (A.) and Ciordia (N.), it finally ascends to the Alzania mountains, on the border Navarre and Gipuzkoa.
The Zadorra basin collects the waters of this oval of mountains that encloses the "plain" of Alava. The northern chain is formed by the Alzania mountains, the Urkilla, Elguea and Gorbea ranges. The eastern part of the plain is enclosed by the Altube, Arrato and Badaya ranges. The southern part is enclosed by the Tuyo mountain range, the mountains of Vitoria, Iturrieta and Enzia. The two natural passes in this area are those of Aspárrena, a continuation of the Navarrese Ravine to the east. And the Conchas de Arganzón to the southwest. Parallel to the Iturrieta mountains runs the Cantabria mountain range, at the foot of which is the Rioja Alavesa. The Izkiz range and its branches join these two mountain ranges. From the above, it can be seen that the land of Alava is made up of basins mountain ranges which are sometimes flat and often criss-crossed with hills. From Vitoria, crossing the mountains of the same name, you can easily reach the Cantabria mountain range and its Herrera pass. A short distance away is the viewpoint of La Rioja. From here, in a marvellous view, you can see the whole of the Ebro depression as far as Logroño. The closest lands of this fertile region form the Rioja Alavesa.
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